Discover the next Open Days Milano · Firenze · London · Paris · Dubai Register nowDiscover the next Open Days
BACK GAME CHANGERS
Nov 27, 2024

How visionary was Franco Moschino, really

A Milan exhibition honours Franco Moschino, three decades after his death, featuring Stefano Pandini’s photography and new perspectives

 

Celebrating a Legacy of Visionary Creativity and Uncompromising Irreverence

The exhibition pays tribute to Franco Moschino, though his name isn’t splashed across the walls or attached to every quote. Still, his presence is unmistakable. The irreverence that defined him lingers in the air; Moschino’s spirit can be felt in the images, in both spoken and written words and in every corner of the gallery.

“When did you start breaking the rules? On 27 February 1950, my date of birth” – Franco Moschino

Milan honours Franco Moschino with a unique exhibition held at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio and runs from 22 November to 19 December

Milan honours Franco Moschino with an exhibition held at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio 

Thirty years after his passing, Milan honours one of fashion’s most disruptive forces and an alumnus of Istituto Marangoni with “Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” (“Franco Moschino: The Visionary Genius”). The exhibition is held at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio and runs from 22 November to 19 December.

Curated by Giuseppe Mastromatteo and Pier Paolo Pitacco, this exhibition was created to commemorate an important anniversary. Mastromatteo notes that the show provides long-overdue recognition for a designer whose influence continues to be deeply felt.

The exhibition “Franco Moschino. Il Genio Visionario” is curated by Giuseppe Mastromatteo (left) and Pier Paolo Pitacco (right), members of the Art Directors Club Italiano (ADCI).

The exhibition “Franco Moschino. Il Genio Visionario” is curated by Giuseppe Mastromatteo (left) and Pier Paolo Pitacco (right), members of the Art Directors Club Italiano (ADCI)

Both curators are members of the Art Directors Club Italiano (ADCI), a cultural association that has brought together leading professionals in advertising and communication since 1985. ADCI organised and promoted “Franco Moschino. Il Genio Visionario” with the support of the City of Milan. In addition, Moschino was posthumously honoured with ADCI’s prestigious Hall of Legends 2024 award, which celebrates extraordinary figures in art, communication, and advertising.

 

There’s No Freedom Without Chaos

“There’s no freedom without chaos. The Moschino concept lies in granting absolute freedom to those who wish to dress as they please. Conventions are banned. What you wore last year—if you still like it—wear it again this year, and the next” – Franco Moschino

The exhibition features the photographs of Stefano Pandini, a close collaborator of Moschino. Pandini’s work captured the designer’s unique blend of irony and provocation, with many images taken at the historic Superstudio13. These photographs, displayed as large-scale prints and fine art editions, showcase Moschino’s talent for blurring the lines between fashion, art, and social commentary.

Sketches and unpublished photographs by Franco Moschino, featured in the exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona's Superstudio.

Original sketches and photographs of Franco Moschino, featured in the exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona's Superstudio 

Pandini fondly recalls their time together: “To call it work feels wrong. It was a game, a continuous delight where Franco dismantled a false system.”

The images highlight Moschino’s iconoclastic vision. Instead of showcasing the designer’s garments, the exhibition titled “Franco Moschino. Il Genio Visionario” presents visitors with scenes of Moschino wearing wigs, children’s clothing, stockings, and scarves.

 

I Am Not a Seamstress

The enfant terrible of Italian fashion famously resisted conventional labels. “I’m not a seamstress, with all due respect to seamstresses,” Moschino said, identifying himself instead as a creative visionary who critiqued the fashion system from within.

To define Franco Moschino’s legacy to a single adjective, such as provocative, would be a disservice. Beginning in 1983, his career, which spanned over a decade, interwove fashion, art, philosophy, and graphics to challenge established norms.

The “Franco Moschino. Il Genio Visionario” exhibition in Milan

The “Franco Moschino. Il Genio Visionario” exhibition in Milan

More than just a critique of society, his work also introduced a series of concepts that resonate deeply with contemporary issues. From tacking ecology through his first fake furs to addressing crucial topics like inclusivity, consumerism, war, and market-driven ideologies, Moschino’s vision was strikingly ahead of its time, predicting the concerns of today’s world. In other words, Franco Moschino’s provocative ideas remain just as relevant now as they were in the past.

“If you can’t be elegant, at least be extravagant” – Franco Moschino

 

Inspiring Future Generations

The “Franco Moschino. Il Genio Visionario” exhibition also explores Moschino’s enduring influence on the new generation of creatives. One of the highlights is a selection of works by graduates of Istituto Marangoni, the same Milanese design school that Moschino attended in the 1970s.

The exhibition also showcases works by graduates of Istituto Marangoni, highlighting Franco Moschino's lasting impact on the next generation of creatives

The exhibition also showcases works by graduates of Istituto Marangoni, highlighting Franco Moschino's lasting impact on the next generation of creatives

These works were selected through an international contest for the I’M Alumni Community, which connects former students of the school. The pieces—including videos, artistic concepts, outfits, accessories, and graphics—offer a contemporary reinterpretation of Moschino’s groundbreaking aesthetic.

 

A Celebration with Purpose

Visitors can explore Franco Moschino’s world through a film that chronicles his life and career alongside video interviews featuring prominent figures who share their perspectives on 1980s and 1990s pop culture. Those featured include philosopher Gianni Mereghetti, musician Manuel Agnelli, former Vogue Italia art director Luca Stoppini, and model Violeta Sanchez. Personal memorabilia from Stefano Pandini’s private collection is also on display as part of the “Franco Moschino: The Visionary Genius” exhibition.

Sketches and unpublished photographs by Franco Moschino, featured in the exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona's Superstudio.

Original ketches and photographs of Franco Moschino, featured in the exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona's Superstudio

For collectors, the exhibition offers 100 limited-edition copies of the book Iconoclasta, each signed by Pandini, along with fine art prints. Proceeds from the sales will be donated to the Abbiategrasso Hospice, which is supported by the Fondazione Moschino and provides care for terminally ill patients.

 

An Irreplaceable Legacy

“I’m not a seamstress, with all due respect to seamstresses” – Franco Moschino

The result is an exhibition that doesn’t just honour Moschino but also invites visitors to step into his world. Through bold photography and fresh reinterpretations, “Franco Moschino: The Visionary Genius” amplifies the irreverence of a creative mind who redefined fashion and culture in ways that are truly irreplaceable.

 

 

Ludovica Contoz
MA in Fashion Promotion, Communication & Digital Media, Milan