Does the scarcity of AI-generated items on runways suggest the end of the “amplifying creativity” era? Not at all—it thrives backstage
The recent round of fashion weeks did not showcase the exciting AI innovations we anticipated from a fashion design perspective. This season, even Coperni opted for a mouse (Mickey, not the tech device) rather than robot dogs and AI pins.
While many supporters believe that generative AI could be a game-changer for fashion designers in the years to come, the initial excitement seems to have rapidly faded. After just two years of enthusiasm surrounding the creative possibilities offered by generative Artificial Intelligence, is the celebration already coming to an end? Let us take a moment to reflect on this.
The (Short) Wave of AI-Generated Fashion Design Frenzy
In April 2023, the AI creative studio Maison Meta made headlines by hosting the first AI Fashion Week in New York (https://www.istitutomarangoni.com/en/maze35/industry/ai-fashion-week-is-here-and-so-are-our-questions-fad-or-future). It was less a traditional fashion week and more a contest and showcase competition for AI enthusiasts and emerging designers, igniting discussions about the implications of using this new tool for creative purposes in fashion.
DressX, the world’s leading platform for digital fashion designed for avatars in AR/VR environments, garnered attention during Paris Haute Couture Week last June by hosting a generative AI challenge on Discord. This allowed users to virtually try on high-fashion designs straight from the catwalk, highlighting the potential of a “phygital” approach to fashion.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Designers KWK (Kay Kwok) and Taskin Goec trained a custom AI model based on their previous works and styles to create a hybrid collection, which was showcased on the luxury fashion platform SYKY during London Fashion Week in February 2024. The show was curated by none other than Nicola Formichetti, the fashion mastermind behind Lady Gaga’s infamous “meat dress,” who has recently been appointed artistic director at SYKY. In his new role, he embraces the platform’s vision of offering “digital-physical fashion for increasingly blurred worlds,” effectively capturing the fusion of two realities into one.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Sharing or Parting Ways with AI? A Dilemma in Fashion
The fashion industry can benefit significantly from AI in various areas. However, the design process does not appear to be one of them. While AI can enhance efficiency in processes like time-to-market and trend analysis, it seems less effective in fostering creativity.
Several luxury brands are intentionally distancing themselves from the AI narrative to assert their brand identity. They prefer to emphasise craftsmanship, aiming to maintain their independence from an increasingly digital and automated world. For instance, in a landscape buzzing with discussions about artificial intelligence, Tod’s has chosen to highlight ‘artisanal intelligence’. “Artisanal intelligence runs counter to the prevailing discourse. The focus is on a highly elevated product, which is the cornerstone of ‘Made in Italy’,” stated Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini prior to the fashion show in Milan last September.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Nevertheless, the fashion market can leverage AI to manage supply chains, forecast emerging trends, and analyse customer preferences, thereby reducing costs and promoting sustainability by minimising overstock.
Additionally, as counterfeiting remains a significant issue for luxury fashion houses, indie labels and retailers, the fashion industry is increasingly turning to technology to combat this problem. AI-powered authentication systems are being used to detect counterfeits and preserve brand identity, leveraging artificial intelligence to identify patterns that are often invisible to the human eye.
Considering the advantages discussed in the previous paragraphs, can we truly be confident that AI does not offer equally significant benefits in fashion design processes? The main issue is this: while the fashion industry openly shares its use of AI to enhance sustainability and address intellectual property concerns, it tends to be less forthcoming about its application in creative contexts. However, it’s worth noting that while AI may not be a prominent feature on the catwalk, many fashion brands are actively incorporating it into their design processes, even if they do not publicise this practice. In fact, it is gradually becoming standard for trend research, visualising various materials and patterns, and assisting at multiple stages of the design process. Why is this happening? Perhaps it’s because the narrative around virtual assistance seems to diminish the perceived value of creativity. More likely, it’s because AI is no longer viewed as a novel or trendy tool; it has simply become an integral part of the workflow.
Gaia Giordani Generative
AI Explorer and New Media Communication Expert