Embark on an insider’s journey with me as I, a 1-year Fashion Business student from Paris, explore Rochas’ Fall-Winter 2024/25 collection during an exclusive backstage encounter. Guided by Alessandro Vigilante, the recently appointed creative director of the French luxury house, we unravel the core of his inaugural presentation.
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Hailing from Apulia, Italy, Vigilante’s path combines a passion for movement and fashion, as he transitioned from a professional dancer to a seasoned designer. Graduating in Fashion Design marked the genesis of his career, with experiences at prestigious brands such as Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci with Alessandro Michele, Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, and The Attico.
Looks from the Rochas Fall-Winter 2024-25 debut collection by Alessandro Vigilante. Courtesy of Rochas
Now entrusted with Marcel Rochas’ legacy, Vigilante’s mission goes beyond mere design; it’s a harmonious blend of French sophistication and the celebration of femininity. “Everyday fantasy,” he articulates, encapsulating the quintessence of his creations. Acknowledging the significance of his debut, Vigilante humbly remarks, “It’s a first step,” resonating with the promise of an exciting exploration ahead.
Join us as we delve into the intricacies of Alessandro Vigilante’s creative process, discovering Rochas’ latest presentation at Paris Fashion Week Women’s Fall-Winter 2024/25 and the compelling narrative woven through each meticulously crafted garment. Curious about Gen Z’s response?
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Hi Alessandro, what a striking debut you’ve made with this collection. Could you share your experience transitioning into the spotlight as the new creative director of Rochas?
I must say, being approached by Rochas came as quite a surprise to me. Ever since I was a child, I’ve harboured dreams of creating elegant, sweeping dresses, often designing them and envisioning them on a runway. However, the thought of designing collections for a renowned French brand like Rochas didn’t seem within reach. With 18 years of experience working at esteemed fashion houses such as Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, and The Attico, I felt both surprised and deeply honoured when the opportunity arose. Transitioning to embrace the classical French aesthetic was a revelation for me, considering my Italian roots. Nevertheless, I felt prepared for the challenge, and to my surprise, everything was super easy. There was an instant connection between Rochas and me. Philippe Benacin, Chairman and CEO of Interparfums (the French company that owns Rochas), swiftly connected with my vision for the brand. Interestingly, this isn’t my first venture into designing for the Maison. I had previously curated the spring-summer 2024 collection, albeit without my name attached to it. This initial experience served as a valuable exercise, enabling me to immerse myself fully in the brand’s mood and aesthetic.
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You know what they say: birds of a feather flock together! The presentation is absolutely captivating, I can’t tear my eyes away. Could you provide us with three words to encapsulate its essence?
I’d say: “Unlock Your Possibilities.” It’s about breaking free from routines and immersing yourself in a world of imagination with wide-open eyes, seeing everything as a potential transformation through our creative minds. This fuchsia setting, with the walls and furniture all cloaked in bright pink fabric, could be interpreted as a boudoir or as the space of our imagination, surrounded by the captivating hue of Pink Hibiscus.
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I’m fascinated by the blooming Hibiscus metaphor! Could you share the inspiration behind the collection?
The starting point was a 1939 photograph by Carlo Mollino, an architect and photographer, featuring a woman in a long satin dress behind the doors of her closet. Behind her, you could see pieces of art, flowers, and more. I thought to myself: she is concealing all her desires and intimacy there; it is her history, as seen through our eyes.
Looks from the Rochas Fall-Winter 2024-25 debut collection by Alessandro Vigilante. Courtesy of Rochas
I envisioned her lying on her bed, with a blanket covering her legs that could transform into a coat or a skirt adorned with embroidered and quilted hydrangea flowers held together by ribbons. Stripes also played a role; I discovered from founder Marcel Rochas’ archives that he had an affinity for them. Even the packaging of the Moustache perfume for Men featured stripes. Colours were carefully chosen – goldfinch yellow and mahogany brown, complemented by light blue, margarita green, bleached apricot, and diva blue. The furry knitwear feels like wrapping oneself in a fluffy blanket. Lingerie pieces were also incorporated.
Looks from the Rochas Fall-Winter 2024-25 debut collection by Alessandro Vigilante. Courtesy of Rochas
Please take a look at this grey formal jacket paired with a skirt adorned with metallic silver ringlets reminiscent of curly hair. And don’t overlook those Dalmatian prints. Together, these ensembles reflect Rochas’ woman as a free spirit who embraces playful elements. Finally, the lace-covered stockings are inspired by the design of the Femme perfume packaging—an original creation by Marcel Rochas. Interestingly, I also incorporated lace motifs into the eye makeup, adding a touch of fantasy.
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So, what’s my take as a Gen-Zer on Alessandro Vigilante’s debut at Rochas? Overall, Vigilante’s creations were nothing short of magnificent, captivating my attention throughout the show. Each piece in the collection challenges traditional notions of volume, texture, and tailoring. Described by the designer as “an exploration of both form and essence,” the collection effortlessly merges negligee and nonchalance with theatrical flair, presenting a seamless fusion of different worlds.
Mia Shehade
Fashion Business Student, 1st year, Paris