From Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent to Balenciaga’s Demna and his brother, the luxury industry is no stranger to fiery rivalries
Few things captivate the fashion world quite like fierce rivalries and public feuds, where designers compete not only in creativity but also in their sharpness of wit. If life imitates art, fashion often becomes a battleground where words serve as weapons, and no one is safe from a designer’s scorn. Let’s explore some of fashion’s most memorable—and brutal—diss moments.
Coco Chanel vs. Elsa Schiaparelli: The Original Frenemies
Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli both pioneered avant-garde styles, but their relationship was notoriously icy. Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel was known for her strong opinions, and when it came to Schiaparelli, her critique went beyond fashion and turned physical.
According to a legendary story from a masquerade ball, Coco Chanel allegedly pushed Elsa Schiaparelli into a candelabrum, causing her rival’s gown to catch fire. The incident is described in Paola Calvetti’s book ‘Le Rivali’, and it suggests that it wasn’t accidental.
Chanel and Schiaparelli were rivals to the core, each representing distinct fashion aesthetics: Chanel’s understated elegance contrasted sharply with Schiaparelli’s surrealist touch. This rivalry was more than personal; it was a war over the essence of high fashion itself.
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Coco Chanel vs. Christian Dior: Fashion Philosophy in Conflict
Coco Chanel didn’t limit her biting criticisms to Elsa Schiaparelli alone. She also famously disapproved of Christian Dior’s approach to women’s fashion. In Chanel’s view, Dior’s designs were overly structured, constraining women in ways she considered regressive.
Chanel reportedly commented, “Dior doesn’t dress women; he upholsters them like armchairs.” This remark wasn’t just a critique of Dior’s aesthetic but also a jab at his understanding of what women wanted in fashion.
While Dior emphasised an opulent, almost aristocratic femininity, Chanel advocated for freedom of movement, comfort, and a style that celebrated women’s natural forms. This clash symbolised a deeper ideological divide within the fashion world, highlighting Mademoiselle Chanel’s commitment to breaking the norms that she believed Dior reinforced.
Karl Lagerfeld vs Yves Saint Laurent: Fame over Friendship
Karl Lagerfeld, the late creative powerhouse behind Chanel and Fendi, was famously outspoken, and his comments about Yves Saint Laurent reveal just how fierce the competition was between these two designers.
In the 1970s, Kaiser Karl was quick to call out Saint Laurent’s ambition, claiming that his younger peer “only ever wanted to be rich and famous.”
Both Lagerfeld and Saint Laurent were emerging designers at the time. However, while Lagerfeld prioritised an artistic vision, he implied that Saint Laurent’s motivations were more superficial. The rivalry escalated as Saint Laurent’s popularity rose, challenging Lagerfeld’s standing in the fashion world. Their relationship was emblematic of a deeper conflict: the eternal tug-of-war between art and fame in the industry.
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Giorgio Armani vs. Gianni Versace: A Clash of Class and Provocation
When Italian fashion giants clash, the world takes notice. Giorgio Armani, known for his clean designs, once recounted a comment from Gianni Versace that perfectly illustrated their contrasting styles.
“See,” Gianni Versace reportedly told Giorgio Armani, “you dress the sophisticated, elegant women, and I dress the sluts.” Versace’s words were a blunt acknowledgement of his unapologetically daring and sensual aesthetic, which stood in stark contrast to Armani’s refined and understated approach.
Their rivalry underscored two distinct philosophies: Armani’s subdued elegance versus Versace’s bold sexiness. Each designer appealed to different types of women, and their designs became symbols of the worlds they represented.
Azzedine Alaïa vs Anna Wintour: A War of Legacy
Not every fashion feud involves designers alone. Sometimes, it pits a designer against a powerful editor. Azzedine Alaïa, often referred to as the “King of Cling” for his body-hugging designs, had no love lost for Anna Wintour, the formidable editor-in-chief of Vogue.
Alaïa once bluntly asked, “Who will remember Anna Wintour in the history of fashion? No one.” The designer’s remark wasn’t just a diss—it reflected his resistance to the fashion establishment and his belief that true fashion legacy wasn’t determined by editorial favour but by innovation and artistry.
Azzedine Alaïa’s dislike for Vogue’s Anna Wintour also stemmed from what he viewed as a superficial fashion culture dominated by editors rather than artists. This perspective continues to resonate with designers who feel stifled by the power dynamics within the fashion media landscape.
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Guram Gvasalia vs Demna Gvasalia: Brotherly Love (and Shade)
Sibling rivalries are the stuff of legend, and the Gvasalia brothers bring this dynamic squarely into the world of high fashion. Demna and Guram Gvasalia are both influential figures who have exchanged public jabs, especially since Demna was appointed Creative Director at Balenciaga under the Kering umbrella. This new role left his brother to lead the creative vision of Vetements, the brand they co-founded, which initially launched them into the spotlight.
Balenciaga’s Demna often faced subtle criticism from Guram Gvasalia, who appeared to feel overshadowed by his brother’s success. After a Balenciaga show where their mother opened the runway, Guram posted a cryptic comment on Instagram, saying, “Proud to see my mother open the Balenciaga show. I’m very sad that I was not invited to watch. Praying for my brother’s soul. God bless him.”
Guram Gvasalia’s post revealed a family drama that could easily belong in a soap opera. The underlying tensions spoke volumes about the pressures and jealousy that can emerge within family relationships when power and prestige are at stake.
Kanye West vs Hedi Slimane: When Music and Fashion Collide
No modern fashion feud would be complete without Ye, aka Kanye West. The rapper’s controversial relationship with the fashion industry reached a peak in 2013 when he clashed with Hedi Slimane, who was then the creative director of Saint Laurent.
Hedi Slimane reportedly invited Kanye West to his show at Paris Fashion Week, but he stated that West could only attend if he didn’t go to any other shows. West, known for his boundary-pushing music and fashion ambitions, didn’t take kindly to Slimane’s restriction. The feud intensified when West released the track “I Am a God,” which many believed to be a dig at Slimane.
In a BBC Radio 1 interview, Kanye West commented, “Yeah, he got some nice £5,000 jeans in there. But we culture. Rap is the new rock and roll. We the rock stars. And I’m the biggest of all of them.” The Kanye-Slimane clash highlighted the tension between the traditional fashion establishment and the influence of hip-hop culture.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master’s Programme Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan