In Milan, it’s bold luxury that made headlines: XXL furry coats, provocative Little Black Dresses, strass-encrusted jeans, plus expressive make-up
Before Paris and its revolving door of creative directors—new, under scrutiny, or still in the process of being assessed—take centre stage, Milan has made its statement. Or rather, the most thought-provoking catwalks of Milano Fashion Week have driven home: enough with the predictable minimalism and quiet luxury; it’s time to embrace conscious excess.
Audiences and communities worldwide are eager for fashion to return to its roots but with a new set of rules. Some of the brands featured on the runways in the Italian fashion capital seem to have captured the spirit of the times: fringes sway between glamour and chaos, (faux) fur gets a fresh update, grandmother’s sweater is reimagined as high fashion, and black? It remains a staple but with a twist. Here are the trends from Milano Fashion Week Womens’ Fall-Winter 2025/26 that are likely to spark debate in the future—or perhaps just until next fashion month.
Extra-Large Furry Statement: Less Is No Longer More
Forget the discreet furs and demure preppy collars: fur is back with a bang. Many pieces are faux, and if real, they’re upcycled—and they’re as oversized as the demand for them.
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Voluminous, extravagant, and, more often than not, infused with a sense of responsibility, fur has re-emerged with confidence. Under Silvia Venturini Fendi, the LVMH-owned Fendi house celebrated its centenary with lavish shearling items that exude both heritage and luxury, while Giorgio Armani redefined faux fur as a coveted status symbol. The message is unmistakable: we’re after softness, warmth—and a touch of ostentation.
LBD, but with a Twist (and a Lot Less Fabric)
The Little Black Dress may never have truly left the spotlight, but this season, it’s demanding our attention.
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At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have deconstructed it, turning it into something fluid, playful, and provocatively beautiful. Donatella Versace, on the other hand, has distilled it down to a whisper of fabric, showcasing sharp cuts and dominant femme fatale silhouettes. Black remains timeless—but the way we wear it has evolved: it’s less about formality and more about attitude.
Fringes in Motion
If the world moves fast, why should our clothes stand still? Fringes have taken over the Milano Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2025/26 catwalks, poised to sway with us.
Despite the brand’s recent financial woes, Ferragamo’s Maximilian Davis put on a brilliant display, making fringes the highlight of a vivid red mesh dress that floated over a runway of rose petals, proving that dynamism can be sophisticated. This tribute to the roaring ‘20s evokes a time when jazz and a desire for freedom made both clothes and fringes come alive with the same vibrancy we channel through our frantic modern lives. Ultimately, the interpretation lies with the observer, but what’s undeniable is that the hypnotic effect they create makes you want to dance— or at least strut with a little extra swagger.
Big Is Bag (But With Criteria)
After seasons of tiny bags barely large enough to hold a lipstick, spacious and practical bags are reclaiming their place in fashion.
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Prada and Ferragamo are leading the revival of the maxi bag but with a more sophisticated, artisanal approach. The takeaway here is clear as day: it’s not the size that counts, but how you carry it.
Fair Isle in the City
Once confined to mountain lodges and holiday markets, the Fair Isle sweater has found its place in the urban wardrobe, at least for womenswear in Fall-Winter 2025/26.
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Gucci, the Kering-owned brand currently without a creative director (with rumours suggesting that Hedi Slimane may soon take the role), along with Etro under Marco De Vincenzo and Marco Rambaldi, have reworked this classic design using luxurious yarns and bold, eye-catching colour combinations. Here’s the deal: if you feel comfortable, you can absolutely pull off the look (sorry, Anna Dello Russo).
Super-Hyper-Ultra-Decorativeness
Rhinestones, embroidery, beads, 3D appliqués dazzled at the latest Milano Fashion Week—next winter’s evening dresses are undeniably for those who dare to stand out.
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At Dolce & Gabbana, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have pushed denim into a baroque whirlwind of hyper-decoration. Meanwhile, David Koma, in his debut at Blumarine, has blended bold embellishments with sophisticated nuances. When it comes to making a statement, it’s obvious: more truly is more.
The Relaxed Nonchalance of Tailoring
Elegance doesn’t need to be loud to make an impression. Giorgio Armani understands this perfectly, focusing his collection on unstructured jackets and wide trousers, where a sense of ease becomes a hallmark of refined style.
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Similarly, Max Mara’s Ian Griffiths has embraced this relaxed approach, creating fluid silhouettes that seem to whisper, “I have a busy schedule, but I handle it with class.” At Ferrari, Istituto Marangoni alumnus and designer Rocco Iannone has taken this concept even further by blending refinement with power and speed. In his designs, tailoring is relaxed without ever losing its impact—much like a sports car that, despite its raw strength, glides effortlessly on the road with graceful ease.
All We Need is Expression—Even in Make-up
The top catwalks at Milan Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2025/26 clearly indicate that the era of cold, impersonal minimalism is firmly behind us. Fashion now demands luxury, movement, and details that push boundaries. Whether it’s an oversized furry coat, a sweater with a retro twist, or a piece drenched in embellishments, risk-taking is back in style.
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Makeup reflects this bold new direction as well—it’s hypnotic, unapologetic, and utterly uncompromising. From metallic eye flashes to lacquered, vinyl-like lips, the standout shows captivated audiences with grooming that radiated stage presence and personality. The models showcased radiant, almost surreal skin enhanced by light bases that allowed their natural beauty to shine through. Eye makeup took bold turns, featuring graphic eyeliners or smoky eyeshadows, leaving no room for subtlety or moderation.
Why Womenswear FW25 Trends Want More
Excess is no longer a whim; it has become a deliberate style statement. Garments are returning to a place where they’re not afraid to be seen, to stand out, and to exist without worrying about being bought. Forget the safe, personality-less pieces of the past; today’s fashion is all about volume, detail, and powerful visual storytelling. And as wardrobes become richer, the beauty look is compelled to follow suit.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Alumna, Milan