From Gucci’s shake-up to Fendi’s centenary, amid shocking exits and bold debuts, MFW is shaping up to be the defining story of FW25
Milano Fashion Week is back—and it’s bigger than January, at least. Set to run from February 25 to March 3, the event is expected to generate 185 million euros in sales across stores, restaurants, transportation, hotels, and other services.
Once exclusively focused on women’s collections, the line-up has increasingly embraced a co-ed format, reflecting the shifting tides of the fashion world. With 153 events on the agenda—including 56 physical shows, six digital presentations, and around 70 showcases—the week, centred around Fall-Winter 2025/26 collections, is poised to stir a significant economic ripple throughout Milan. Expect a surge of international visitors, industry insiders, and fashion enthusiasts.
Gucci Opens Milano Fashion Week: What to Expect Without Sabato De Sarno
Gucci will kick off Milano Fashion Week with its “unified” Fall-Winter 2025/26 runway show at 3 p.m. CET on February 25, though the location remains under wraps. The much-anticipated catwalk comes at a time of significant transition for the brand. On February 6, 2025, Gucci announced the end of its collaboration with creative director Sabato De Sarno, just weeks ahead of the show. The collection will now be presented under the leadership of the maison’s creative office without De Sarno’s distinctive touch.
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This moment marks a critical juncture for Gucci, which has faced challenges in recent months, including a 24% drop in sales in the fourth quarter of 2024. Industry insiders suggest that the brand is poised to unveil a new creative director soon as it navigates a broader strategic realignment within Kering.
A Season of Anniversaries: Celebrating Fashion’s Milestones
Milano Fashion Week 2025 is marked by significant anniversaries, paying tribute to some of the industry’s most influential names. K-Way, the Italian outerwear brand, will celebrate its 60th anniversary with a runway show on the opening day, while Dsquared2 will honour its 30-year journey with a co-ed catwalk.
However, the spotlight falls firmly on Fendi, which is celebrating its centenary. In a departure from its usual January men’s collection, Fendi will host a co-ed runway show on February 26, directed by Silvia Venturini Fendi. With the departure of Kim Jones, who previously served as the creative director for the brand’s haute couture, ready-to-wear, and fur collections, Venturini Fendi will now oversee both the men’s and women’s collections.
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Meanwhile, Giorgio Armani marks 50 years of his company in 2025, though details of his plans for the celebration have yet to be revealed. Additionally, the accessories brand Santoni will also commemorate its 50th anniversary, ensuring that the accessories sector takes centre stage with a special presentation on Friday, February 28.
Creative Shifts: Debuts Set to Redefine the Industry’s Future
Milan Fashion Week 2025 will feature two major creative debuts set to redefine the future of iconic brands. Lorenzo Serafini, after years at the helm of Philosophy, has taken over as the creative director at Alberta Ferretti, bringing a sophisticated yet contemporary aesthetic to the brand, with his first collection set to be unveiled on the opening day of the MFW.
February 27 will mark David Koma’s catwalk debut at Blumarine, a brand that has recently embraced a bold, sexy, and irreverent spirit, becoming synonymous with Y2K romanticism. Appointed as the new creative director on July 31, 2024, Koma previewed his pre-fall 2025 collection for Blumarine in January 2025, following a series of red-carpet looks that revealed a glimpse of his vision for the brand. His Fall-Winter 2025/26 collection is expected to showcase his signature sculptural, body-contouring designs on the Blumarine runway for the very first time while capturing the sensuality and glamour the brand is renowned for.
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Koma, who revitalised Mugler during his tenure from 2013 to 2017, is seen as the ideal choice to bring fresh energy to the Italian label. His appointment follows the departure of Walter Chiapponi, who left Blumarine in March 2024 after presenting just one collection. Marco Marchi, the sole director of Exelite, Blumarine’s parent company, expressed confidence in Koma’s ability to interpret the brand’s codes with an “overwhelming femininity.”
Additionally, Alberto Caliri will also debut as the new creative director at Missoni on February 28, succeeding Filippo Grazioli. In the presentation space, Paul Andrew will take over at Sergio Rossi, making his mark on the brand with a debut collection that adds to the excitement of the week.
A First Walk on the Official Runway: Fresh Designers in the Spotlight
The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) has reinforced its commitment to nurturing emerging talent this season, with a number of rising designers set to make their Milan catwalk debut. Francesco Murano will showcase his collection on February 27, followed by Giuseppe Di Morabito and Institution by Galib Gassanoff on February 28.
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On March 2, Fiorucci will officially join the fashion calendar under the creative direction of Francesca Murri. On the same day, Chinese designer Susan Fang will debut in Milan, supported by Dolce&Gabbana as part of their ongoing initiative to champion young talent.
Absences and Surprises: Notable Missing Names
While many major names are set to take centre stage, a few notable absences will be felt at this year’s Milano Fashion Week Women’s Collection. Bottega Veneta, currently navigating a creative transition from Matthieu Blazy to Louise Trotter, has decided against holding a runway show. Instead, the brand will unveil its new Milan headquarters at Palazzo San Fedele on March 1, featuring a performance and collaboration with Casa Mollino.
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Meanwhile, Del Core and GCDS will not be part of this year’s event. Despite these omissions, the core of Milan’s fashion scene remains strong, promising plenty of captivating runway shows to come.
A Cultural Affair: Milano Fashion Week as a Platform for Art
Milano Fashion Week Women’s Collection Fall-Winter 2025/26 will be marked not only by its runway shows but also by a rich cultural programme. On February 26, the exhibition “Io sono LEONOR FINI”, which celebrates the Italian-Argentine surrealist artist and muse to designers, will open at Palazzo Reale. Moreover, as part of Milan Fashion Week’s official schedule, Max&Co. will unveil an exciting collaboration with artist Pietro Terzini on Tuesday, February 25.
Other cultural events will include K-Way’s exhibition at Museo Della Permanente and a special showcase of Anna Piaggi’s iconic looks, presented by MinervaHub, following a preview at Milano Unica. Additionally, the “Balenciaga: Shoes from Spain Tribute” exhibition will open at Palazzo Morando, exploring the intersection of fashion and art.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Alumna, Milan