The larger the numbers, the higher the stakes. Welcome to the grand stage of Milano Fashion Week February 2024, where 161 engagements await, dedicated to the women’s fall-winter 2024/25 collections: 56 physical shows, 5 digital catwalks, 67 presentations, 7 appointment-only showcases, and 26 events.
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This alone makes Milan the ultimate hotspot for insiders next week. But hold onto your hats, fashion people! In the heart of Milan Fashion Week Women’s Collection, running from February 20 to 26, three Italian fashion powerhouses are poised for reinvention.
Adrian Appiolaza, a designer already hailed for his talent within the industry, is poised to dazzle with his debut collection for Moschino. Tod’s will bid farewell to Walter Chiapponi, marking the dawn of a new era led by Matteo Tamburini. But Chiapponi isn’t about to step back; he’s stepping up with his vision for Blumarine following the departure of Nicola Brognano.
A snapshot from the launch campaign for Milan Women's Fashion Week FW 24. Photo by Antonio Dicorato. Courtesy of CNMI
But hold on tight because there’s a crescendo of excitement still to come. Keep reading to see what unfolds next.
Gimme! Gimme! Gimme! (Three Fashion Debuts Before Midnight)
The Milan Women’s Fashion Week FW 2024/2025 calendar tells quite the story, and we’re in for a feast of treats. Our attention is immediately captivated by three remarkable debuts that are already the talk of the town.
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Let’s begin with Moschino, which is set to start a new chapter on Thursday, February 22, with the appointment of Argentine talent Adrian Appiolaza. Appiolaza has previously worked as a ready-to-wear designer for Chloé under Phoebe Philo and later under Clare Waight Keller, as well as for Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs. He later served as Women’s Ready-to-Wear Design Director at Loewe under Jonathan Anderson.
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On Friday, February 23, two significant events are set to take place. Tod’s will unveil the innovative vision of their new creative director, Matteo Tamburini, while Walter Chiapponi will take charge of Blumarine’s fashion catwalk an hour later. As we bid farewell to the 2000s, which catapulted Nicola Brognano’s vision of Blumarine into the global spotlight, aided by stylist Lotta Volkova, Chiapponi appears well-equipped to navigate the brand’s storied history. The label was founded by Anna Molinari and Gianpaolo Tarabini in Carpi in 1977, and Chiapponi affectionately referred to it as “a brand of my youth” on his Instagram.
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This is one of the reasons why Istituto Marangoni Milano is proud to have Walter Chiapponi as a mentor. He has already guided the students of the Master’s in Fashion Design and will continue to do so with the new academic courses in the near future
The Greatest of Made in Italy
The schedule will also feature renowned names that have cemented Milan’s status as one of the big four fashion capitals globally.
A snapshot from the launch campaign for Milan Women's Fashion Week FW 24. Photo by Antonio Dicorato. Courtesy of CNMI
Starting on the first day, we expect to see Fendi, Alberta Ferretti, and Roberto Cavalli by Fausto Puglisi. Additionally, Marco De Vincenzo’s Etro will present its co-ed fall-winter 2024/25 collection, making a comeback after skipping the latest Milan Fashion Week Men’s.
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On Thursday, February 22, Max Mara’s classic with a twist will be on display under the vision of Ian Griffiths, alongside Prada’s women’s collection, crafted by the power couple Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons.
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The next day, Friday, February 23, Gucci by Sabato De Sarno and Donatella Versace will unveil their new women’s wardrobes on the runway. Also, on the same day, Marni, owned by OTB and creatively directed by Francesco Risso, will return to Italy after experimenting with an itinerant format travelling across Paris, Tokyo, and New York.
The weekend will be packed with stars: Ermanno Scervino, Ferragamo by Maximilian Davis, Dolce&Gabbana by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and Missoni under the creative helm of Filippo Grazioli will grace the runways on Saturday, February 24. The day will start with Ferrari’s show and end in style with Bottega Veneta.
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Giorgio Armani, who celebrates his 90th birthday on July 11, 2024, will, as usual, showcase his women’s collection on the final day of Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, February 25.
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The shows will also feature influential names who visited Istituto Marangoni Milano to share their expertise and nurture the students’ emerging talents. On Wednesday, we’ll be treated to the fall-winter 2024/2025 women’s collection of N°21 by Alessandro dell’Acqua, the mentor who guided the students of the Master’s course in Fashion Design at Istituto Marangoni Milano for the project “New Neorealism N°21.” Thursday, Giuliano Calza, aka the mentor at IM Milano for the 2023/2024 first-year students of Fashion Design, Fashion Styling, and Fashion Business, will showcase his brand GCDS, which is known for its cool, kawaii, and Instagram-friendly designs. Finally, on Friday, Massimo Giorgetti, who mentored the students of the Master’s programmes in Fashion Design for the development of two capsule collections in 2022, will present his brand MSGM.
The Hypest Moments We Crave
There’s no denying it—the larger-than-life show on Wednesday’s agenda (and quite possibly of the entire fashion week) will undoubtedly be Renzo Rosso’s Diesel, designed by Glenn Martens. They’re giving away a thousand tickets to their community, once again aiming to disrupt and break the barriers of the fashion elite. Traditionally, only a select circle of journalists, buyers, opinion leaders, and celebrities receive invitations to fashion shows, but Diesel is changing the game.
Be sure to mark a few standout events on your calendar: Palm Angels’ “Son of a Beat” project promises three electrifying clubbing nights with an exclusive line-up of international DJs, all amidst the frenzy of fashion week.
Also, don’t miss Juergen Teller’s book signing on February 24, coinciding with his photography exhibition titled “I need to live,” currently on display at Triennale Milano until April.
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And who knows? We might even spot the new Ferrari driver, Lewis Hamilton, seated among the front-row guests or strutting down the runway for the brand with the Prancing Horse emblem.
The New Cool Kids on The Block
Milan is not only a hub for established brands but also a thriving ground for emerging talents and young, hyped brands.
A snapshot from the launch campaign for Milan Women's Fashion Week FW 24. Photo by Antonio Dicorato. Courtesy of CNMI
On Wednesday, February 21, all eyes will be on the runway debut of Marco Rambaldi, a versatile creative from Bologna known for his expertise in knitwear, commitment to sustainability, and promotion of inclusivity.
Moving to the next day of Milan Women’s Fashion Week FW24, the debut of Sagaboi, founded in 2015 by Geoff K. Cooper and deeply rooted in Caribbean subculture, is expected to make waves.
On Friday, February 23, anticipation mounts for the Sunnei show, where Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo will unveil their latest collection. The creative duo is renowned for their irreverence, and last season, they delighted guests by inviting them to vote for runway outfits using palettes.
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Sunday will bring London-based Feben into the spotlight. Hailing from Ethiopia and raised in Sweden, Feben now calls London home. The designer is the latest talent chosen for the “Supported by Dolce&Gabbana” project, an initiative led by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana aimed at nurturing young talents in the fashion industry.
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Also, on Sunday, expect some TikTok-worthy moments from Avavav. Founded in 2017 by Linda and Adam Friberg and acquired in 2020 by young Swedish women Johanna Blom and Beate Karlsson, the brand has quickly gained attention for its eccentric creations and humorous approach.
The Milan Women’s Fashion Week fall-winter 2024/2025 will conclude on Monday, February 26, with a series of digital collections, including Maison Nencioni. Created by Istituto Marangoni Milano alumna Elisa Nencioni, the label debuted on the official CNMI schedule in September with its Spring-Summer 2024 collection.
Silvia Tarini
Editor, Milan