No doubt, London’s graduate fashion shows are where the city’s experimentation, radical creativity and innovative thinking meet. But what happens backstage as students get ready to hit the catwalk with their first collections? How do they feel? Are they scared, excited, nervous?
Behind the scenes of the latest Istituto Marangoni London graduate show
As the last Istituto Marangoni London graduate show came to an end, we caught up with our new Fashion Design Student of the Year, Hyun Jik Yoo from South Korea, to pick his brain on everything from the inspiration to the main challenges behind his collection.
Istituto Marangoni London's new Fashion Design Student of the Year, Hyun Jik Yoo from South Korea
“We are searching for elements of innovation in design, techniques and silhouette, as well as responsible choices in sourcing, with a focus on sustainability. At the same time, the best collection needs to have resolved and considered designs made in suitable fabrics, to a high quality of construction and finish,” stated Stelios Geros, Programme Leader in BA Fashion Design courses at Istituto Marangoni London.
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“Hyun Jik Yoo satisfied all these criteria and developed his collection’s strong concept with in-depth research interpreted into the design. Most importantly, he was able to nurture a personal DNA, an aesthetic code and a signature making his collection recognisable and identifiable. He was also determined to produce a desirable, relevant and industry-ready design without compromising his own creativity.”
A model with a look by IM student Hyun Jik Yoo walking the catwalk at their latest graduate show
“Among the students, Hyun Jik was the most defined with finesse and ready to work as a fashion designer”, concluded Stelios Geros.
Istituto Marangoni London's new Fashion Design Student of the Year, Hyun Jik Yoo, doing fittings
Curious to know more about this talent? I recently spoke to Hyun Jik about his path to the runway. Interestingly, he studied Business Management in South Korea before embarking on a journey beyond his home country because he needed “to see the world outside,” as he told me in this interview.
The graduate collection of IM London Fashion Design student Hyun Jik Yoo backstage, ready to hit the catwalk
Congratulations on being nominated for the Student of the Year. How did you feel about the fashion show opportunity?
I got to know I was selected three days before the fashion show – I was really happy but not feeling anything at that moment. On the day of the show, I realised I would have to walk down the runway – I was not prepared to smile – but then I realised it was an outstanding achievement.
Hyun Jik Yoo walking down the catwalk at the end of the show with a model
I would like to learn more about your academic journey in fashion.
It is quite a complicated story. I started studying Business Management in South Korea and quit university in the last term of my 4th year because I had always wanted to work in fashion. So, I left to look for something abroad as I needed to see the world outside of South Korea, and I came to London to complete my studies.
A look from IM student Hyun Jik Yoo's graduate collection
How did you approach your studies at IM London?
I had a less artistic approach to fashion and a more promotional-commercial way of thinking, elements that I looked for in Istituto Marangoni. I knew nothing about art before, nor to prepare a portfolio, so I had to apply for a foundation year as I knew that to become a designer, I needed everything from drawing to making skills. I visited New York as an option, but it was not for me. Paris didn’t match my style. Then I visited Italy, and even though I loved the culture, the language barrier was something to consider. So, Istituto Marangoni in London was the best choice for me.
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In your graduate collection, you interpreted Jack the Ripper’s story into fashion design to define the psychological aspect of a criminal mind, featuring an identity portrait through silhouettes and fabrics. How did you develop your collection concept?
I started with this idea before my third year, then put it on hold as I was advised to delve deeper or consider a different topic. When I returned to it, I did my research on the character, visiting a museum and locations around the Whitechapel where his criminal story took place. I read books and collected stories, reports and images from TV series and documentaries. I even focused on anatomy books, as Jack the Ripper was noted to have some anatomical knowledge. Initially, I was confused about how to work on primary research to develop a collection on this topic. After researching, I sketched over 300 designs.
Some of the design process behind Hyun Jik Yoo's graduate collection
I structured my design based on Ripper’s primary traits, such as ostentation and contradiction, capturing his personality.
A technical chart from Hyun Jik Yoo's graduate collection
Through images, I created a portfolio of ideas associated with dark-coloured fabrics to highlight these essential components in the garments and did the same with silhouettes and shapes.
A look from IM student Hyun Jik Yoo's graduate collection
Which was the main challenge in the making of this collection?
In the last semester, I intended to focus more on the Ripper’s personality and hidden identity aspects and how to reflect them in my collection. So, my challenge was creating a collection based on a character, showing details that make him recognisable and adding some lesser-known aspects about him.
Final sketches from Hyun Jik Yoo's graduate collection
Using fabric manipulation techniques, I interpreted his self-centred personality through draping and wrapping while deconstructing the pieces. I used a specific palette of dark colours – blue, grey, black and red – to reproduce the background of 19th-century London and the character’s psychological aspect. Then I focused on fabric selection –rough wool, tweed, felt, jersey organza and the gabardine – and detailed finishing that I wanted to recreate with ripped, black stiff sheer fabric, using recycled or upcycled knit fabric, but keeping a contemporary and innovative look.
A look from IM student Hyun Jik Yoo's graduate collection
Above those elements, I added some hidden signatures, such as invisible pockets. I also added other accessories in the styling process, like shoes stained in red blood-like varnish.
Hyun Jik Yoo created shoes stained in red blood-like varnish
What about the genesis of the covered-face look?
The idea of covering the face was born in the third term. At first, it was a separate look, and then I added the top hat, handmade by me from the same fabric as the coat and with an upcycled knit.
A look from IM student Hyun Jik Yoo's graduate collection
During the last fitting, the stylists suggested trying the look together with the hat and the face cover detail, which worked. I figured out that ideas can be generated through different attempts and suggestions.
Istituto Marangoni London's new Fashion Design Student of the Year, Hyun Jik Yoo, doing fittings
Any projects for the future?
Professionally, the ‘sandwich year’ was useful as I worked as a designer at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi brand, where I developed the making skills I used to design my collection and experimented with new materials with proper stitching skills. My ultimate goal is to launch my brand; I want to create a signature brand with recognisable hidden details. But I think I need to gain more work experience first.
Silvia De Vecchi
University Librarian, London