Is the fashion squad back on the Big Four? It must be fashion month! Here’s the lowdown on Milano Fashion Week SS25 women’s collections
Fashion January has arrived, and Milan is once again ready to roll out the red carpet for the global fashion flock. From September 17 to 23, the city will be buzzing with excitement as it takes centre stage for Milano Fashion Week Women’s Spring-Summer 2025 collections. So, what’s the scoop we can share now? You can bet something thrilling is coming up. Here’s your ultimate sneak peek.
A Rich Calendar and an Extra Day
After a busy June showcasing men’s collections, Milan is back in the spotlight this September with a week dedicated to womenswear, featuring 57 physical shows, 8 digital ones, 69 presentations, 6 appointment-only showcases, and 33 events. That’s a whopping 173 engagements, and while some up-and-comers like Cormio and Act N°1 will be missing from the roster (as Vogue Italia points out), AndreAdamo—one of the Camera Moda Fashion Trust Grant 2024 winners—will be making a return to the runway.
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Moreover, Milan Fashion Week is extending its runway coolness by an extra day this season, stretching to a full seven days of fashion frenzy. You might think this extra day is just about giving more spotlight to the big names or flaunting the latest huge trends—not quite. It’s also a barometer of the luxury market and a magnet for emerging talents and brands that are carving out their place on the international stage.
Giorgio Armani’s New York Detour
One of the hottest topics this season is Giorgio Armani’s absence from the Milanese catwalks. The legendary designer has chosen to unveil his Spring-Summer 2025 women’s ready-to-wear collection in New York on October 17, coinciding with the grand opening of his new flagship on Madison Avenue. This geographical shift—albeit just for one season—underscores the brand’s global reach and Armani’s aim to strengthen its connections with the American market.
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Meanwhile, Milan will still host the Emporio Armani show on the evening of September 19.
The Return of The Attico and Marni’s Strategic Switch
This season, keep your eyes peeled for The Attico, which is making its runway comeback at Milano Fashion Week after debuting in September 2023. Founders and creative masterminds Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini are poised to cement their status as one of the hottest “it-girl” brands on the Italian fashion scene. Their collection is set to be a masterclass in blending luxury with streetwear, delivering a show that’s bold, unexpected, and fabulously cool.
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Meanwhile, Marni is upping its fashion game with a dash of strategic brilliance. Under Francesco Risso’s creative direction and as part of Renzo Rosso’s OTB empire, Marni has opted for a slot switch this season. You can catch them on the first day of Milan Fashion Week, Tuesday, September 17, at 4:30 p.m., right after Fendi by Kim Jones, which kicks off at 3 p.m. It’s a savvy move designed to grab the spotlight in an otherwise jam-packed schedule and ensure Marni makes a memorable splash.
An All-Star Line-Up on the Catwalk, Plus Rising Stars Making Their Mark
Prepare for a fashion spectacle as Milan’s runways play host to an all-star cast, from Prada’s Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons to Donatella Versace. Expect major showcases from Etro’s Marco De Vincenzo, Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno, Roberto Cavalli’s Fausto Puglisi, and Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy. Also, make sure not to miss Adrian Appiolaza paying tribute to Franco Moschino’s legacy at Moschino. Let’s also give a nod to Rocco Iannone, a standout from the Istituto Marangoni alumni community, who is now making a mark as Ferrari’s creative director and earning plaudits from the fashion crowd.
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This season also introduces some exciting new faces. Chinese designer Susan Fang, the latest protégé of the Dolce&Gabbana duo, is set to showcase her talents, while Federico Cina—typically seen in the men’s calendar with his co-ed shows—will make a surprise appearance. Is he here to stay? Also making their debut is Chicco Mao, a brand founded in Beijing in 2013 by Maobaobao, an Istituto Marangoni Milano graduate.
Among the rising stars turned Milan Fashion Week MVPs, Marco Rambaldi, Daniel Del Core, and Andrea Adamo are shaking up the concept of contemporary elegance with their daring creations. Once considered emerging talents, these names are now fashion certainties, proving that the future of Italian creativity is in exceptionally good hands.
The Names We’ll Miss (Aside from Giorgio Armani)
So, where are the rising stars Luca Lin of Act N°1—who’s now flying solo after founding the brand with Galib Gassanoff—and Jezabelle Cormio, who charmed the LVMH Prize jury?
While Giorgio Armani’s absence is making headlines as the most significant missing name, other notable absentees will have fashionistas sighing with disappointment.
Aside from the fresh talents we’ve already mentioned, we won’t be seeing Blumarine this season. The brand is undergoing a creative revamp, with David Koma taking the reins from Walter Chiapponi, who departed last March. Tom Ford is also taking a rain check following Peter Hawkings’ exit and Haider Ackermann’s recent appointment as creative director.
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MSGM is a no-show this September as well; Massimo Giorgetti celebrated his 15-year milestone with a co-ed show for Men’s Spring-Summer 2025 and Women’s Resort 2025 in June, so a brief hiatus seems in order. And while Sagaboi won’t be on the runway, they’re holding a presentation instead.
Off-Schedule Fiorucci at Triennale and the Exhibition You Should Visit
Fiorucci, the iconic brand synonymous with an era of glamour and rebellion, is now under the creative vision of Francesca Murri. Breaking away from the norm, they will host an off-schedule show on Tuesday, September 17, taking over the Triennale with a catwalk that’s bound to steal the spotlight.
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But that’s not all. Make sure to mark your calendars for November 6, 2024, when a retrospective exhibition celebrating Fiorucci’s legendary founder, Elio Fiorucci, opens. Running until March 16, 2025, and curated by Judith Clark, the exhibit promises to explore the world of Fiorucci, who, in the 1960s, started redefining lifestyle, fashion, and contemporary art in Italy. Fiorucci’s concept stores once played host to happenings and performances that drew in intellectuals, performers, and artists. If you think you’ve seen it all, think again—this is one fashion history lesson you’ll want to enrol in.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Master student, Milano