Best and worst of Milano Fashion Week FW25: Triumphs, struggles, and the future
Prada redefined femininity, Gucci wavered between eras, Marni embraced energy, while creative shifts signalled uncertainty ahead
Fashion has always been a form of communication, but now more than ever, its language must evolve to resonate with the present. That much was clear from the Milano Fashion Week Women’s Fall-Winter 2025/26 shows. At Istituto Marangoni Milano, Fashion Design Programme Leader Antonio Patruno Randolfi mapped out the new trends emerging from the latest runways, revealing a fashion system caught between rewriting and citation, functionality and ornament, past and present.
The Big Questions
But which shows truly defined this Milano Fashion Week, for better or worse? Who pushed forward, and who took a step back? Who convinced the audience, and who raised questions? Which designers continued a compelling creative journey—one we hope will last for seasons to come—and who seemed to be bidding farewell? Some even presented without a creative director, navigating financial challenges and awaiting the appointment of a new designer. Here’s what we take away from Milan’s Fall-Winter 2025/26 womenswear collections.
Prada’s Provocation of Feminine Ideal
At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explored the concept of femininity, posing the question, “What does feminine beauty mean today?” Our era is marked by an obsession with an idealised form of beauty and a relentless pursuit to achieve it, fuelled by the widespread availability of cosmetic enhancements and social media filters that promise perfection.
On the runway, Prada and Simons sought to challenge the traditional concept of flawless femininity. They did this by designing skirts with paper-bag waists, moving away from the classic hourglass silhouette, and opting for fabrics that were thick and coarse, not soft and inviting—conveying a sense of “don’t touch” rather than “touch me”. In this new light, beauty is no longer just a feminine ideal; it becomes something innovative, constructed through alteration, reshaping, recontextualisation, and deconstruction. The garments evolve in both form and function, redefining luxury in a way that feels far from cold. This approach reflects a fresh pragmatism firmly oriented towards the future.
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Gucci Straddling Eras
At Kering-owned Gucci, the recent departure of designer Sabato De Sarno just weeks before the show prompted the creative studio to explore a tapestry of timelines. In this collection, eras overlapped and references intertwined, crafting a rich yet elusive narrative.
It felt like a collage spanning different periods, sparking a dialogue between the past and present that suggested a distinct direction but never fully landed. Was it a groundbreaking innovation or merely an exercise in style? Was the brand evolving or just treading water? Ultimately, the answer lies in the eye of the beholder.
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Jil Sander’s Minimalist Goodbye
At OTB-owned Jil Sander, Luke and Lucie Meier marked their departure with an ode to pure minimalism. However, when the quest for perfection becomes an academic endeavour, the emotional connection can easily fade.
In a fashion landscape that demands engagement, excitement, and resonance, rigour alone is no longer enough. Without a heartbeat, what’s meant to be pure becomes simply an abstract notion.
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Marni’s Storytelling Energy
Marni, by contrast, made the case for storytelling as the true beating heart of fashion. Under the creative vision of Francesco Risso, the collection presented by this brand, part of the OTB Group, has transformed into an immersive experience—a riot of volumes and colour that goes beyond clothing to evoke deep emotions. Even during its Fall-Winter 2025/26 show at Milan Fashion Week, the runway pulsed with energy, transforming each outfit into a chapter of a larger tale.
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A Milano Fashion Week in Transition
The recent Milano Fashion Week has painted a picture of significant change. From a design perspective, some designers construct, some deconstruct, some narrate, and some explore new ideas. In terms of leadership, upheaval is a recurring theme: alongside Gucci and Jil Sander, Fendi’s womenswear is also seeking a new auteur, with at least two more major brands rumoured to soon part ways with their creative directors.
The Future: Who Will Write the Next Chapter?
The future, much like in Paris, is uncertain. However, one thing is clear: fashion can no longer be just seen; it must be read, understood, and interpreted. The next chapter of the industry will belong to those who craft new narratives and engage meaningfully with communities and consumers—not those who are satisfied to revisit archival references or retreat into safe, predictable concepts of “quiet luxury.”
Agnese Pasquinelli
Alumna, Milan