Marine Serre! Paul Smith! Plan C! Can Pitti Uomo 106 reclaim its spotlight?
Intrigued by the debut standalone menswear show from the iconic moon print designer? Pitti is back on track with notable comebacks and premieres
From June 11 to 14, the Fortezza da Basso in Florence is poised once again to become the global stage for men’s fashion as it hosts Pitti Uomo 106, showcasing the Spring/Summer 2025 collections from top brands.
In the midst of the luxury and fashion sectors returning to a more ‘normalised’ growth trajectory after the accelerated expansion of the post-COVID-19 era, Pitti Uomo, the leading menswear trade show, seems determined to reignite commercial interest.
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With its Lemon-themed ambience promising to infuse energy into every facet of the event, Pitti Uomo 106 is poised to reclaim its position as a pivotal industry platform. However, amidst the anticipation, what exactly should we expect from this unmissable gathering? Let’s delve deeper together.
Pitti Immagine Uomo Returns with Irresistible International Appeal
High-profile names are already making waves ahead of the event.
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One of the most anticipated highlights is the special event by Paul Smith on the opening day, June 11, at Villa Favard.
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Another significant feature is the choice of Marine Serre as a Guest Designer. Her work epitomises contemporary style and substance, challenging traditional luxury norms through deadstock materials, recycling, and upcycling practices. She has quickly become a hot ticket on Paris Fashion Week’s calendar, marked by inclusivity and unexpected elements – who could forget the Kate Moss doppelganger causing a stir on the runway last March? Described by Karl Lagerfeld as “1m50 but (with) a will of steel” and renowned for her distinctive moon print, the Paris-based designer is set to debut her first full and standalone menswear runway show. This follows a January showcase of a collection entirely dedicated to men.
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The debut of Plan C’s menswear line by Carolina Castiglioni is also generating a lot of buzz, and there is increasing anticipation for the first runway presentation by Pierre Louis Mascia at the Tepidarium Giacomo Roster, an elegant glass greenhouse, designed in the Liberty style.
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If Life Gives You Lemons, Make Them Pitti Lemon
The ‘Lemon’ theme of Pitti Immagine Uomo 106 beckons to rediscover the vitality ingrained in both men’s fashion and life itself. Symbolising rebirth, cleanliness, and vibrancy, ‘Lemon’ promises to infuse Pitti Uomo 106 with an atmosphere of celebration, energy, and innovation. Attendees can expect to be surrounded by a range of colours, creative installations, and collections representing freshness.
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Under the creative direction of Angelo Ficus, the advertising campaign prominently features lemons. Illustrations by Giordano Poloni, known for his collaborations with national and international newspapers, depict an imaginative Lemon City where style and creativity intersect. This light yet powerful theme draws inspiration from a lineage of artistic influences spanning centuries, from Ghirlandaio to Picasso, Paolo Conte, and U2.
Fortezza da Basso’s Transformation Scripts the Future of Men’s Fashion through Global Special Projects
Pitti Uomo 106’s interaction is about to kick off, yet it has already claimed the spaces of the Fortezza da Basso.
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The trade show will be divided into five sections: Fantastic Classic, Dynamic Attitude, Futuro Maschile, Superstyling, and I Go Out, spanning from classic to casual, delving into the worlds of research and outdoor fashion.
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In addition to these sections, special areas will further enrich the experience. One of these is the return of the highly anticipated return of S|Style, the Pitti Discovery Foundation’s exhibition project curated by fashion journalist Giorgia Cantarini in collaboration with the Kering Material Innovation Lab (Kering MIL). This showcase will spotlight brands dedicated to promoting sustainable practices.
Another noteworthy area is the third edition of the Vintage Hub Circular Fashion, located on the first floor of the Arsenale, spotlighting innovative approaches within the vintage fashion sphere. This edition will also feature a special participation by a series of nouvelle couture designers, who will unveil their artistic interpretations of upcycling through a special installation.
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In terms of international collaborations, alongside the established presence of the Scandinavian Manifesto and the J∞Quality project promoting Japanese clothing, this year introduces the special project China Waze at the Costruzioni Lorenesi. This dedicated area is the result of a partnership between Pitti Uomo and the China National Garment Association, offering a platform to showcase contemporary Chinese menswear excellence through eight distinguished collections.
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Returning for the fourth time, the collaboration between Promas French Menswear Fédération and DEFI (Développement des Entreprises Françaises de l’Industrie de la Mode) promises to spotlight French creativity. Facilitating the participation of 34 French brands at Pitti Uomo 106, this collaboration is further bolstered by the launch of Promas List, a platform fostering direct connections between global buyers and French menswear brands.
Beyond Men’s Apparel
If you believe Pitti Uomo 106 is solely dedicated to men’s attire, think again. It’s a comprehensive trade show that not only highlights menswear but also incorporates lifestyle components, such as accessories and furniture. These elements are gaining significant traction within the collections presented to end customers by leading department stores globally, as well as concept boutiques and high-end shops.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Fashion Business, Digital Communication & Media student, 3rd year, Milan