Amidst the fashion industry’s efforts to prevent old garments from ending up in landfills, expanding upcycling emerges as a promising solution for the future. This is particularly relevant for leftover, surplus, deadstock, excess, scrap, or off-cut leather. Consequently, many brands are pioneering innovative approaches to consider end-of-life leather products as valuable resources. They transform them into fresh, sustainable luxury items through upcycling, which involves reusing and repurposing discarded 100% leather to create unique products designed to offer greater quality and value than the originals. Moreover, there is a growing number of emerging fashion designers who want to contribute to the industry’s responsibility by experimenting with new disruptive ways of leather upcycling, echoing the sentiment that “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.”
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And here’s a fascinating story. Did you know that upcycling leather can lead to gold-medal outcomes? Alida Xavier, a graduate of Istituto Marangoni London with a Master’s degree in Accessories Design, was one of the winners of the ‘Real Leather. Stay Different. Student Design Competition’ in 2023 with her bag project, which was crafted with a commitment to the circularity of leather. This contest, in partnership with Arts Thread and funded by the Leather & Hide Council of America (L&HCA), aimed to discover a new generation of fashion designers dedicated to working with natural, responsibly produced leather. This endeavour is centred on sustainable practices and the transformative power of leather upcycling.
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If you have a passion for designing leather pieces and responsibility is your mission, why not apply for the new RLSD? The ‘Real Leather. Stay Different. Student Design Competition’ 2024 is now open to applicants from various regions, including Mainland China and the Taiwan Region. Submissions from the UK, the Nordic Region, and the Philippines will soon be accepted. The judges will challenge applicants to create an original design in one of three categories – apparel, accessories or footwear made from leather. Contestants are required to use leather as the inspiration for a single item that must be at least 50% cattle hide leather. Any other materials used must be natural or organic materials where possible. They do not accept the use of fur or exotic skins, and plastics can only be used where no natural alternatives are available. As they encourage upcycled leather, they also ask contestants to consider ease of recycling, reuse, and disposal at the end of the product’s life.
Not sure how to apply? No worries, we spoke with Alida Xavier to learn about her experience as the winner of the Accessories category in 2023. Her winning creation was a handheld basket bag named ‘Knots & Weaves,’ crafted from off-cut leather strips using traditional basket weaving techniques. In our conversation, Xavier shared her experience of how she prepared her application portfolio to meet the competition criteria, how she was shortlisted internationally, and how she ended up presenting her project in Milan, ultimately winning it for the accessories design category. She saw it, she wanted it, and she got it!
Alida Xavier's 'Knots & Weaves'—a masterfully crafted handheld basket bag
How did you find out about this international competition for fashion design students in higher education?
During my Master’s dissertation research in 2022, I was exploring the circularity of the leather industry. It was during this research that I came across The Leather & Hide Council of America (L&HCA) and chooserealleather.com, where I discovered the ‘Real Leather. Stay Different. Student Design Competition.’ Additionally, my programme leader at Istituto Marangoni London, Kirsten Scott, encouraged me to apply after recognising the suitability of my project. Eager to seize the opportunity, I decided to give it a shot, and I did.
How did you begin your application process?
Given that the process resembled previous academic or job applications I’ve completed, I simply sat down and focused on ensuring that my project and overall concept were understandable and appealing for the contest.
Alida Xavier, an alumna of Istituto Marangoni London, emerged as the winner in the Accessories category of the 2023 ‘Real Leather. Stay Different. Student Design Competition.’ Her winning creation was a handheld basket bag crafted from upcycled leather strips employing traditional basket weaving techniques
What about your portfolio preparation?
My MA Dissertation at Istituto Marangoni London happened to align perfectly with the mission of the ‘Real Leather. Stay Different. Student Design Competition’ regarding upcycling leather. I decided to apply with my final project, which was a capsule collection. I meticulously reviewed the submission criteria multiple times to ensure I had all the necessary documents ready. Several months before the deadline, I reworked my entire portfolio, which I had developed throughout the MA course in Accessories Design, to align with the structure required for the competition. I submitted one portfolio along with a two-minute video introducing myself and my project, and fortunately, it was successful.
How did you motivate yourself throughout the application process?
With thousands of applicants worldwide, I had no specific expectations. As a result, I navigated through the competition panel and also cast votes for other students.
Was this your first competition showcasing your leather bag design?
Yes, indeed. This competition marked my debut using my Master’s final project. Additionally, I participated in a second competition by Arts Thread – the Global Design Graduate Show 2023 – in collaboration with Gucci. Unexpectedly, I was only shortlisted among the Top 500 entries in this competition.
What was your reaction upon discovering that you had won the accessory category of the ‘Real Leather. Stay Different. Student Design Competition’?
In mid-July 2023, I was shortlisted and eventually chosen as the winner of the International Student Design Competition 2023 for the Accessories category. Honestly, I couldn’t believe it, and I was asked to keep the information confidential until it was officially announced. So, I kept the news to myself for a few weeks before sharing it with my family. I told them about the possibility of going to Milan to present my work to the judges and compete for the RLSD 2023 International Competition overall winner title. It was such an exciting moment. I informed my tutors and closest friends right after my Graduation Day, but I still couldn’t fully accept or believe it until the date of my presentation in Milan drew closer.
What happened in Milan?
The ‘Real Leather. Stay Different. Student Design Competition’ organised my trip to Milan, where I competed in the global final for the title of overall winner. Additionally, my bag design sample was selected to be featured as part of a capsule collection presented to all the event attendees in Milan. It was an amazing and surreal moment seeing my bag displayed in the inspiring Museo Nazionale Scienze e Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci; it gave me goosebumps.
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How was your experience showcasing your project?
All feedback provided by the judges shed light on aspects I may have overlooked. However, witnessing the judges’ genuine interest and support towards the project and the idea of creating an upcycled woven leather bag filled me with optimism. It made me realise that there is a significant potential to bring about a positive change within the leather industry.
Alida Xavier with footwear category winner Sara Veneziano and overall winners Ana Del Rio Mullarkey and Tamar Elbaz
How key was the networking experience in showcasing your project?
As a recent graduate who hadn’t yet experienced that aspect of the design industry, it was incredible to have conversations with numerous professionals about my design and concept. It became apparent that the fashion industry may not be fully aware of the waste generated during production and the untapped potential it holds. The judges were amazed when I presented my bag, which was made from leather waste collected during the cutting stage of production, salvaged from the bin, and transformed into a woven bag. They couldn’t believe it.
Alida Xavier during the presentation to the judges of the ‘Real Leather. Stay Different. Student Design Competition’ in Milan
Why are you remaking your bag prototype now?
I have been busy working on reproducing the sample, and so far, it is progressing well! Revisiting this creation has led me to reflect on how I managed to complete it during the stressful submission period, considering it takes around 30 hours to make.
Could you provide some tips for new students applying to be selected for the ‘Real Leather. Stay Different. Student Design Competition’ 2024?
First, conduct thorough research. Delving deeply into your research will provide you with the necessary information and opportunities. Second, ensure that your project meets the criteria outlined by the competition. Take the time to read and reread what they expect from the project. Third, prepare your portfolio meticulously to showcase your work in the best possible way.
To learn more about Alida Xavier’s winning bag design, visit chooserealleather.com and be inspired by emerging talent from around the world. You could be the next winner in 2024!
Silvia De Vecchi
University Librarian, London