Can Milano Fashion Week FW25 reinvent menswear amid uncertainty and absences?
Amid missing brands and economic challenges, five days will shape the future of menswear, showcasing new strategies for Fall-Winter 2025/26
From 17th to 21st January 2025, Milano will host the latest edition of Milano Fashion Week, showcasing the Fall-Winter 2025/26 collections for men.
Amid a challenging geo-political and economic climate, which poses ongoing financial pressures and shifting industry dynamics, this season is expected to adopt a more restrained approach. As noted by WWD’s Martino Carrera, the event will be “a slightly more relaxed affair,” serving as “a signal of the rocky environment fashion and luxury are navigating.”
This season’s event will feature 16 physical shows, four digital shows, and 38 presentations.
The Big Absentees from Milano Fashion Week Men’s Fall-Winter 2025/26
Several high-profile brands, once mainstays of Milano Fashion Week, will be notably absent this season. Fendi, Gucci, Dsquared2, and K-Way, among others, have chosen to move their presentations to February. They are embracing co-ed formats or adjusting their schedules for strategic reasons, such as celebrating significant brand milestones and anniversaries.
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Jonathan Anderson will also be missing, marking a significant departure for the designer, who traditionally presents his JW Anderson men’s collection alongside the women’s pre-collections at Milano Fashion Week. This absence is even more noteworthy given his recent decision to step back from the public eye. Anderson has also opted not to show his menswear collection for Loewe at Paris Fashion Week in January, nor his JW Anderson women’s collection at London Fashion Week in February. Industry sources have confirmed that Anderson’s contract as creative director of LVMH-owned Loewe will end in early 2025, leading to speculation about his potential appointment as creative director at Dior.
What Became of the Londoners in Milan?
Last year, the arrival of Martine Rose and David Koma in Milan, showcasing their eponymous brands, was viewed as a bid to elevate their visibility, given the declining influence of London Fashion Week and the challenges faced by independent designers in the post-Brexit landscape. However, 2025 begins with Milan losing both of these talents. Rose will not be showing at Paris Fashion Week from January 21 to 26, nor in her hometown of London in February. Meanwhile, Koma, who has taken on the role of creative director at Blumarine, is expected to scale back his brand’s presentations despite his intention to continue showcasing his eponymous label.
That said, Dunhill is the only UK-based brand to confirm its return to the Milano schedule after shifting from London last season. Dunhill will close the day with its show on Sunday.
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Pronounce, which made the move from London a few seasons ago, will come back to the runway on January 18 after opting to hold a presentation last June.
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New British talent will also make an appearance, with Qasimi showcasing on Friday and Saul Nash debuting on Sunday with a runway show.
Key Moments and Anticipated Debuts
Milano Fashion Week may be missing some prominent names, but it will showcase a diverse range of strong talent, particularly from established fashion houses.
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A highlight of this season will be the runway debut of Pierre-Louis Mascia, a French designer and illustrator, who will present his men’s collection on the opening day, Friday, January 17. After years of presentations and his first-ever catwalk appearance at Pitti Uomo 106, Mascia promises a striking blend of bold prints and refined aesthetics, setting a distinctive tone for the season ahead.
Following Mascia’s show, the giants of Italian fashion will take centre stage. Giorgio Armani, who is celebrating the 50th anniversary of his brand in 2025, will present two collections, as is customary: the Emporio Armani show, which will close the day on Saturday, January 18, and two presentations of the Giorgio Armani collection on Monday, January 20.
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On Saturday 18, Emporio Armani will have company as Dolce&Gabbana will also showcase their men’s collection at noon. Designed by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the show is expected to be one of the week’s highlights.
The following day, Sunday, January 19, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons will present their much-anticipated show for Prada, which promises to be one of the most closely watched of the entire event.
In the universe of tailored menswear, Zegna, under the artistic direction of Alessandro Sartori, will present on Monday, January 20. This show will blend traditional tailoring and bold future-facing visions, closing out the physical runways for the week.
New Talents to Watch at Milano Fashion Week Men’s Fall-Winter 2025/26
Eyes are also on Domenico Formichetti’s emerging brand, PDF, which drew attention with its Spring-Summer 2025 showcase, featuring a four-hour presentation that included live performances by Ghali, Tony Effe, Tedua, Gaia, Anna, Bresh, Capo Plaza, Tony Boy, and Astro. What surprises will the upcoming show on Via Tortona hold on Friday, January 17, at 8 pm? The event will precede Philipp Plein’s return to the schedule at 9 pm after being absent for a season.
Additionally, two talents from Emilia-Romagna are gaining recognition: Magliano by Luca Magliano, whose narrative approach blends poetry and rebellion, and Federico Cina, who continues to portray the Italian landscape with sensitivity and authenticity.
Fall-Winter 2025/26 Trends to Watch
What will be the key themes for the upcoming season? The return of tailoring is already a major topic of discussion, featuring deconstructed jackets, relaxed proportions, and forward-looking sartorial details.
In addition, we will see a growing emphasis on gender fluidity, with silhouettes challenging traditional conventions.
Also, expect to see proposals that explore luxury athleisure, which combines functional aesthetics with couture elements.
Milan, Capital of Style and Culture
During Fashion Week, the city transforms into an open-air theatre. From historic venues to contemporary art galleries, Milan celebrates not only fashion but also the culture surrounding it. For both professionals and enthusiasts, this event offers an immersion experience within a creative and innovative ecosystem.
We are witnessing a democratisation of the fashion experience, accompanied by a growing commitment to sustainability. Many brands are now adopting responsible practices and using intelligent materials.
Will Milano Fashion Week Maintain Its Global Relevance?
According to the McKinsey Global Fashion Index, 2025 will be a challenging year for the fashion industry, driven by significant shifts in consumer behaviour and market dynamics. To address these challenges, brands will need to innovate and explore emerging markets, such as India for the high-street segment and Japan for luxury fashion.
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In this context, Milano Fashion Week serves not only as a platform for showcasing new collections but also as an opportunity to reflect on the industry’s future strategies. The presence of both established brands and emerging designers will provide valuable insights into how the fashion sector can adapt to an evolving economic landscape.
The question is not whether this edition will offer something to look forward to but rather how far it will push the boundaries of innovation while exploring new solutions and paths to resilience.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Alumna, Milan