Milano Fashion Week came with a new wave of talent. While the fashion world is still debating whether or not to approve Gucci’s first collection by Sabato De Sarno, we have a better question: what about the young, up-and-coming talent entering the industry? The first day of this eventful week saw Istituto Marangoni Milano showcase the top 10 collections of the class of 2023. Held at Frigoriferi Milanesi, the show welcomed a front row of journalists, editors, buyers, big players and celebrities, making it a perfect opportunity for these fresh graduates to unveil their creations.
The front row hosted special guests and celebrities attending Istituto Marangoni Milano Estrangement fashion show
The fashion show was a celebration of novelty, coolness and glamour. Not surprisingly, the collections displayed on the runway were selected by a jury of notable names such as Francesca Ragazzi (Head of Editorial Content at Vogue Italia), Nicola Brognano (Creative Director of Blumarine), Sara Sozzani Maino (Creative Director of Fondazione Sozzani & Creative Advisor Advisor of Conde Nast Italia) and Federico Rocca (Fashion Editor of Vanity Fair).
One of the selected looks for the latest Istituto Marangoni Milano graduate fashion show
One of the selected looks for the show
What was behind the show’s title ‘Estrangement’?
Istituto Marangoni’s goal of promoting talent and innovation inspired a unique catwalk that took the audience on an unexpected journey. Titled ‘Estrangement’, the runway show blended young designers’ creativity with cutting-edge generative technology and artificial intelligence. The result wasn’t a traditional fashion show but a digital catwalk presenting the collections in a disruptive new way, creating a glamorous and contemporary feel. Estrangement combined modernity and coolness, showcasing both wearable and sophisticated garments from emerging designers with diverse cultural backgrounds – backed by extensive research.
A moment from the show
Celebrating the potential of new technology in the fashion world
The journey of the Estrangement show began in the empty but evocative space of Frigoriferi Milanesi. The whiteness of the venue was meant to represent the sense of isolation that people often experience in today’s increasingly (dis)connected world. As the show started, light effects turned the venue into an even more complex and intricate scenario, evoking the transformation of individuals and their relationship with society and technology. A smart tracking system was used to generate a different digital artwork for each collection as the models walked the runway, creating 10 minimalist and immersive worlds. The atmosphere was made even more vibrant by an AI-composed soundtrack created by sound designer Chiara Luzzana exclusively for the show.
The whiteness of the venue was meant to represent the sense of isolation that people often experience in today’s increasingly (dis)connected world
The 10 rising designers who should be on your radar
Giulia Artoni, Simone Celli, Hsuan-Yu Chen, Michael Dalla Valle, Martin Gissi, Laman Khanlarova, Retbierieka Kong, Davide Menapace, David Saxborn and Daniela Zhang were selected as the top 10 graduates from Istituto Marangoni Milano’s class of 2023. Coming from all over the world, they worked to create collections that fully embodied their thoughts about individual isolation in today’s society, which is both exacerbated and mitigated by the digital world.
Istituto Marangoni Milano graduates' final catwalk after the show
When they presented their collections on the catwalk, the audience was impressed by how their looks seamlessly blended craftsmanship and technology. The excitement continued to build when Retbierieka Kong was announced as the Student of the Year, receiving rousing applause from the guests.
Retbierieka Kong was announced as the Student of the Year
Retbierieka Kong was announced as the Student of The Year
Hey designers, don’t do what others may want you to do
Estrangement has successfully infused fresh, international energy into the Milanese fashion scenario through bold colours, a lot of layering, sharp silhouettes and dazzling pieces. Although it is always challenging to voice one’s thoughts, these up-and-coming designers from Istituto Marangoni Milano showcased their ability to translate their ideas into stunning designs, impressing many at Milan Fashion Week.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Fashion Business, Digital Communication & Media student, 3rd year, Milan
