In case you missed it, here are all the moments during Paris Couture Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2024/25 that left us breathless
A Mesmerising Start with Schiaparelli at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild’s Basement
The Paris Couture Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2024/25 had an impressive now-traditional opening by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli, as the creative director presented a reflection on different stages of metamorphosis and featured silhouettes inspired by the 1950s. The show took place in the dark, chandelier-lit basement of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild and transported the audience to a world of fantasies, reminding us why everyone is a fan of couture.
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Dior’s Olympic Homage: Ancient Greece Meets Modern Freedom
In anticipation of the upcoming Olympics in the French capital, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri took the chance to embrace the athletic spirit with traditional peplos, gowns, and bodysuits as a tribute to Ancient Greece—the birthplace of the Olympics. Chiuri’s signature style, which emphasises freedom in clothing and allows the body to move unhindered, was also evident in her couture designs.
Thom Browne’s Sporty, Preppy Take on Couture
Thom Browne also presented his take on the sports event that is now causing a stir in Paris. The American fashion designer, who has recently ventured into couture, brought his distinctive preppy style to the runway, showcasing his exceptional construction skills. He worked exclusively with muslin of various weights and incorporated intricate embroideries—giving a unique anatomy lesson in the middle on the runway—to pull a mostly white collection.
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Chanel’s Dramatic Play Post-Viard
Talking about surprises, Chanel presented its first collection after the exit of their creative director, Virginie Viard, at Palais Garnier. The collection featured the work of the in-house design team with a dramatic play between voluminous capes, ruffles, and the classic tweed pieces of the brand.
Nicolas Di Felice’s Sexy Minimalism for Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier invited Nicolas Di Felice, the artistic director at Courrèges, to be his guest designer. Di Felice modernised the brand’s codes with minimalist and erotic takes in clinging shapes to uncover the body little by little.
What Made Robert Wun’s 10th Anniversary Couture Collection a Sensation?
And what about Robert Wun? The latest couture sensation, who has captivated private clients and stars from Beyoncé and Lady Gaga to Björk and Cardi B—and their celebrity stylists—celebrated his 10th anniversary by reflecting on the concept of time. He showcased a collection with a strong narrative, featuring looks that represented skin, flesh, bones, and soul, and concluded with a universe-inspired gown made of multicoloured crystals, introducing a new style for the designer.
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Let Demna Do What He Does Best: Shake Up the Status Quo (of Couture)
Lastly, the concept of transformation was evident even in the most traditional fashion week, with Paris Couture Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2024/25 pushing beyond the blend of past and present to embrace the industry’s future. At Balenciaga, Demna presented a collection that featured an unravelling couture dress as a mass of black nylon designed to be worn once, raising questions like “What is couture?” and “What fabrics make up a couture garment?” The looks were crafted from materials like denim and tracksuits, repurposed from Demna’s previous years at the label.
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Charles de Vilmorin’s Unisex Mystery
Charles de Vilmorin, who has dominated storytelling in the short time he has been in the game, is also bringing about a change by introducing unisex couture. His designs feature eye-catching colours and—in this season— a mix of slim and oversized structures, along with arabesque feathers that create a dark, mysterious atmosphere.
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Ximena Fernández Ochoa
Fashion Business, Digital Communication & Media, 2nd year, Milano