The 3 books you have to read to master your pattern-cutting skills like a pro
Take it from me: these volumes will sharpen your pattern-cutting skills, saving you time, stress, and sleepless nights
If design is the creative heart of fashion, then pattern cutting serves as its architecture. Although often viewed as separate disciplines, they are deeply intertwined, and when combined, they can elevate fashion to an art form.
To all the aspiring designers venturing into the realm of pattern cutting—don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. Here are some recommendations from Camilla Tavoletti, a recent BA Fashion Design graduate from Istituto Marangoni London, who has mastered pattern cutting from the ground up.
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Think about the legends of fashion: Madeleine Vionnet, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Rei Kawakubo. What did they all have in common? An unparalleled expertise in pattern cutting that enabled them to revolutionise the industry. And you can do the same.
To help you get started, we spoke with Camilla to discover which books she found most beneficial during her three years at university as she developed her pattern-cutting skills from a beginner to an advanced level.
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“There are plenty of great resources out there for pattern cutting, draping, and technical skills,” she said. “Here’s my book selection to get started.”
Metric Pattern Cutting by Winifred Aldrich
A glimpse into the pattern cutting room at Istituto Marangoni London. (Photo courtesy of Rossella Damiani, Photographer, PhotoStudio @IMLondon
Perfect for: Beginners. The sections on women’s and men’s pattern cutting are especially useful. The step-by-step instructions are clear and easy to follow, and the sketches serve as an excellent reference for technical drawings.
Focus: Classic and traditional silhouettes.
Bonus: The book includes a section dedicated to problem-solving, pattern grading, and measuring, which is valuable for understanding fashion standards and taking accurate measurements.
Pattern Magic (Vol. 1-5) by Tomoko Nakamichi
A glimpse into the pattern cutting room at Istituto Marangoni London. (Photo courtesy of Rossella Damiani, Photographer, PhotoStudio @IMLondon
Perfect for: Those wanting to explore innovative shapes through basic patterns. This series provides numerous examples that can serve as exercises for practising pattern cutting and inspiring unique design ideas.
Focus: Futuristic and intricate pattern manipulations, with a particular emphasis on designs for jersey fabrics. Although the patterns may initially seem complex, the detailed illustrations and explanations make them easy to follow.
Bonus: Draping techniques are introduced (typically covered in the second year of a BA in Fashion Design). While they can feel daunting at first, this series will help you get your head around it—especially if draping is not your favourite aspect of design.
Draping: Techniques for Beginners by Francesca Sterlacci
A glimpse into the pattern cutting room at Istituto Marangoni London. (Photo courtesy of Rossella Damiani, Photographer, PhotoStudio @IMLondon
Perfect for: Learning the fundamentals of draping.
Focus: Techniques for draping various silhouettes with helpful visual aids such as images.
Bonus: The book provides numerous examples of how to use draping to create different shapes, offering inspiration for your own designs.
These books go beyond simply mastering technique—they’re about unlocking your creative potential. So, take the plunge, experiment, and watch your pattern-cutting skills grow. The journey to great design starts here. Happy cutting!
Silvia De Vecchi, Librarian, London
Camilla Tavoletti, BA Fashion Design Graduate, London